Carmona bonsai with curved trunk and dense green foliage in cream ceramic pot

How to Grow and Care for Carmona Bonsai (Fukien Tea Bonsai)

Carmona bonsai thrives in bright, humid warmth: give it four to six hours of filtered sun near an east-facing window or balcony, water when the top of the soil dries, and keep it between 18°C and 30°C. Feed fortnightly in growth, prune in late winter, and repot every two to three years.

Quick facts

Detail What you need to know
Botanical name Ehretia microphylla (syn. Carmona retusa, Ehretia buxifolia), family Boraginaceae
Common names Fukien tea, Carmona, Philippine tea tree
Light 4-6 hours of bright light daily; gentle morning sun is ideal, harsh afternoon sun in May-June scorches leaves and flowers
Watering by season Summer: check daily, often water once or twice. Monsoon: only when the top 1 cm is dry, and never let the pot stand in water. Winter: roughly every 3-5 days
Soil Free-draining but moisture-retentive mix, e.g. akadama or fired clay granules with a little humus and pumice or coarse sand
Temperature Comfortable at 18-30°C; protect below about 10°C and shade above 35°C
Toxicity to pets Not listed on the ASPCA toxic plants database; still, discourage cats and dogs from chewing leaves or berries
Best spot in an Indian home East-facing window sill or a bright, shaded balcony; keep it away from direct air-conditioner and cooler airflow

The Fukien tea tree is a tropical evergreen shrub grown for its glossy, dark green leaves, tiny white flowers and a trunk that thickens and gnarls quickly. It takes its English name from Fujian (Fukien) province in China, and it grows naturally across South and South-East Asia, including India, the Philippines, Indonesia and Taiwan, as well as northern Australia.

In China it is a classic Penjing subject; in Indian homes it is one of the easiest flowering bonsai to keep indoors, provided you give it light and steady moisture. Below is how to grow it, how to read its warning signs, and how to bring a struggling tree back.

Bonsai for offices: ficus, Carmona and jade all cope well with indoor conditions, but none of them is a true low-light plant. Place them within a metre of a bright window or add a desk-level grow light. Peace lily tolerates shade but is a houseplant, not a bonsai. Browse bonsai plants suited to offices and desks.

Growing a Carmona Bonsai (Fukien Tea Bonsai)

Carmona Fukien tea bonsai with dense dark green foliage in a shallow pot

Carmona is popular because it builds a thick, knotted trunk quickly while keeping naturally tiny leaves. Young trunks are slim with light brown, reddish bark that contrasts beautifully with the foliage; with age the bark turns pale grey and takes on the character of a much older tree.

The dark, glossy leaves are covered in fine hairs and speckled with small white dots on the surface. They stay small as the tree grows, so the canopy looks dense and in proportion even on mame and mini bonsai, which is why Carmona works as well in a 10 cm pot as in a display-sized tree.

Close-up of Fukien tea bonsai foliage and small white flowers
Mini Carmona bonsai tree showing reddish-brown bark and compact canopy

Given warmth, light and regular feeding, a healthy Carmona flowers in flushes through much of the year, with delicate five-petalled white blossom. Flowers are followed by small round fruits that ripen green to red and then almost black, a little like miniature rosehips.

Interesting Facts about Carmona Bonsai

Feature Detail
Scientific name Ehretia microphylla (also sold as Carmona retusa)
Common name Fukien tea
Height as bonsai Usually 15-75 cm (6-29 inches); up to about 4 m as a shrub in the wild
Width 20-40 cm (8-16 inches) canopy spread
Life span Decades with consistent care; old specimens are handed down for generations
Native range Tropical and subtropical Asia, including India, southern China, Taiwan, the Philippines and Indonesia
Leaves Small, dark, rounded and shiny with fine hairs and white speckles
Flowering Small white flowers in flushes, followed by red to black berries
Watering needs Moderate and even; never bone dry, never waterlogged
Placement Warm, humid and bright; morning sun, filtered afternoon light
Temperature 18-30°C ideal; protect below 10°C
Soil Free-draining mix that still holds moisture
Fertiliser Solid organic pellets, or diluted liquid bonsai feed every 2-3 weeks in growth
Pruning Structural pruning at the end of winter, before new buds break. Leaves are naturally small, so pruning is for shape, not leaf reduction
Repotting Every 2-3 years in spring, with light root work only
Wiring Optional; leave wire on for no more than about three months to avoid scarring
Propagation Semi-hardwood cuttings (reliable) or seed (slow and erratic)
Indoor or outdoor Grown indoors at a bright window; happiest on a shaded balcony or veranda in most of India
Maintenance level Easy, once light and watering are right

How to Care for a Carmona bonsai

Carmona Bonsai Plant Placement

Carmona bonsai placed on a bright window sill for indoor light

Carmona is sold as an indoor bonsai, and it does live happily indoors, but only right beside a window. Aim for an east-facing sill with morning sun, or a bright balcony with shade from about 11 am. In a dim room the shoots stretch, the leaves thin out and flowering stops.

Across most of India it is a year-round outdoor plant in dappled shade. In the north, bring it in or wrap the pot when night temperatures drop near 10°C in December and January. In Bengaluru, Chennai, Mumbai and coastal Kerala it can stay outside all year in filtered light.

Keep it out of the direct blast of an air conditioner, cooler or fan. Air-conditioned rooms are fine for temperature but dry the air; stand the pot on a wide tray of wet gravel or expanded clay to lift humidity around the canopy, making sure the base of the pot sits above the water line, not in it.

In winter, short days and dry indoor air slow the tree down. A small grow lamp for a few hours a day helps in north Indian winters. Choose a bonsai pot with generous drainage holes, and avoid placing the tree where cold draughts from an open window hit it.

Carmona Bonsai Watering

Water precisely: Carmona dislikes both a dry and a permanently soggy root ball. When you do water, water thoroughly until it runs freely from the drainage holes, then let the surface dry slightly before the next round.

Test with a finger rather than a schedule. If the top centimetre of soil feels dry, water. In peak summer that can mean twice a day on a balcony; in the monsoon, days may pass without watering, and rain-soaked pots should be tilted or moved under cover so they drain.

Hard, salty tap water gradually causes yellowing between the leaf veins. Where the water is very hard, use stored RO or rainwater when you can, and flush the pot well every few weeks.

Fertilizing Bonsai Carmona

Carmona roots are sensitive, so solid organic fertiliser is the safest option. Liquid feed works too, at half the label strength, applied every 2-3 weeks through the growing season. Always water the tree first: feeding a dry root ball burns the fine roots.

Feed from spring to autumn, which in India means roughly February to October. Use a nitrogen-rich feed while the tree is pushing new shoots, switch to a phosphorus-rich feed about a month before you want flowers, and use a potassium-rich compost in autumn to harden growth before winter. Feed lightly or not at all when the tree is cold, sick or freshly repotted.

Carmona Bonsai Soil Requirements

Use a mix that drains fast yet holds moisture: akadama or fired clay granules with a little humus and pumice or coarse river sand works well. Garden soil alone compacts in a shallow pot, holds monsoon water and suffocates the roots.

Carmona Bonsai Tree Misting

Misting is optional but useful in dry air, especially in north Indian winters and in air-conditioned rooms. Mist the foliage in the morning so leaves dry before nightfall, and keep the leaves free of dust by wiping them or rinsing the canopy occasionally.

Carmona Bonsai Pruning and wiring

Pruning a Fukien tea bonsai branch with bonsai scissors

Carmona heals slowly, so avoid heavy cuts on thick branches. When you must remove one, seal the wound with cut paste and use clean, sharp pruning tools. Heavier structural pruning is best at the end of winter, just before new buds swell.

For a dense, miniature canopy, keep pinching through the year: let a shoot develop 6 to 8 leaves, then cut it back to 2 or 3. Spring is the strongest growth period, so check the tree weekly then.

Young shoots are flexible and easy to bend, while mature twigs are hard and brittle and snap without warning. If you use bonsai wire, work on young wood, bend gradually, and remove the wire within about three months before it bites into the bark.

Carmona Bonsai Plant Repotting

Repot in spring, as the tree starts into growth: late February to March in north India, and the start of the warm season further south. Most trees need it every two to three years, or when the root ball is solid and water sits on the surface.

The roots are fine and resent disturbance, so be gentle. Lift the tree out, tease a few roots free around the edge of the root ball with a chopstick, trim only the longest circling roots, and leave the core intact. Do not bare-root a Carmona.

Set it into a pot only slightly larger, or the same pot after light root pruning, and work fresh free-draining mix around the edges. Water well, keep the tree in bright shade with high humidity for two to three weeks, and do not fertilise until you see new growth.

Carmona Bonsai Propagation

Carmona can be grown from seed or cuttings. Cuttings are far more reliable; seed germinates erratically and takes years to make a presentable tree.

Seed propagation

Carmona is tropical, so its seed does not need a cold period. What it needs is warmth, constant moisture and patience, and germination can take several weeks to a few months.

  1. Soak the seeds in water overnight.
  2. Wash small pots or containers and make drainage holes at the base.
  3. Moisten a fine, free-draining seed mix so it is damp, not muddy, and fill the pots.
  4. Space the seeds over the surface, allowing more room for larger seeds.
  5. Cover with a thin layer of mix and water gently.
  6. Cover the pot with a clear bag or lid to hold humidity, and keep it at 25-30°C in bright, indirect light.
  7. Air the cover daily and check moisture; never let the mix dry out.
  8. Once seedlings appear, remove the cover, move them into brighter light, and pot them individually the following spring.

Propagation from cuttings

Cuttings root quickly in warm, humid weather, which makes late spring to the start of the monsoon the best window in India.

  1. Mix equal parts peat or cocopeat and medium-grit sand, moisten it, and fill small pots.
  2. Take 8-10 cm semi-hardwood cuttings from the side branches of a healthy tree using clean scissors.
  3. Strip the leaves from the lower third of each cutting.
  4. Dip the base in rooting hormone for a second or two.
  5. Make a hole slightly wider than the stem with a pencil so the hormone is not wiped off, insert the cutting and firm the mix.
  6. Keep the pot in a bright, sheltered spot out of direct sun and wind, covered loosely to hold humidity.
  7. Mist twice a day, spraying above the cuttings so the droplets fall like rain.
  8. Expect roots in six to ten weeks; pot them on once they resist a gentle tug.

Carmona Bonsai Pests and diseases

Pest damage on bonsai leaves caused by spider mites and scale insects

In poor conditions Carmona attracts spider mites, scale, mealybugs, aphids and whitefly. Spider mites thrive in hot, dry pre-monsoon air; scale and mealybug hide in leaf axils. Inspect the undersides of leaves weekly, wash the plant down, and treat with neem oil or a suitable insecticide. Good ventilation and adequate humidity prevent most outbreaks.

Yellowing across the whole canopy usually means overwatering or a compost that drains poorly. Yellowing between the veins while the veins stay green points to hard water or iron deficiency; correct it with an iron supplement and better water.

Fungal infections enter through fresh wounds and can kill a branch or the whole tree. Sterilise tools between cuts and seal larger wounds with cut paste.

Carmona care through the Indian year

Season What to do
Spring (Feb-Mar) Repot if due, start feeding, begin structural pruning before buds break, expect the first flush of flowers
Summer (Apr-Jun) Move to morning sun and afternoon shade, check water daily or twice daily, raise humidity, watch for spider mites
Monsoon (Jul-Sep) Strongest growth; pinch often. Protect from heavy downpours, ensure drainage holes are clear, feed lightly and watch for fungus
Autumn (Oct-Nov) Switch to a potassium-rich feed, reduce pinching, let the tree harden before cooler weather
Winter (Dec-Jan) Bring indoors in north India if nights near 10°C, water less often, add supplementary light, avoid cold draughts and heater air

Bonsai as an art

Bonsai literally means tree in a pot: bon is the tray or bowl and sai the planting. The aim is not simply a small tree but a convincing, reduced image of an ancient tree or a landscape. Like a painter suggesting a valley or a sculptor working a piece of wood, you are shaping a living work of art, and Carmona's fast-thickening trunk makes that impression easy to achieve within a few years.

Is Fukien tea a good option for bonsai?

Yes. Carmona takes to bonsai training well: the leaves are naturally tiny, the trunk thickens and textures quickly, it back-buds freely and it flowers almost year-round in warmth.

It also suits Indian flats. If you have no garden for outdoor bonsai, Carmona will grow on a bright window sill or a shaded balcony, and the humid warmth of most of India matches its native conditions. The one thing it will not forgive is a dark corner. Browse Carmona bonsai and other flowering bonsai if you want a tree that blooms indoors.

Why are my Carmona bonsai leaves drooping?

Drooping and dropping leaves are Carmona's standard distress signal. Work through these six causes in order.

1. Overwatering

Constantly wet soil starves the roots of air, and the leaves go limp and yellow before falling. Let the surface dry between waterings and never leave the pot standing in a saucer of water.

2. Underwatering

A root ball that dries out completely, common on summer balconies, causes leaves to crisp at the edges and drop. If the mix has pulled away from the pot sides, soak the whole pot in a basin for ten minutes to rewet it.

3. Poor lighting

Too little light weakens the tree steadily: growth is pale and leggy, flowering stops and leaves shed. Move it within a metre of a bright window or outdoors into shade.

4. Incorrect fertilisation

Too much feed, or feed applied to dry soil, scorches the fine roots and leaves fall. Flush the pot with plenty of plain water and pause feeding for a month.

5. Repotting stress

Heavy root pruning, bare-rooting or poor soil at repotting stalls the tree; leaves yellow and drop weeks later. Keep a recently repotted tree in bright shade with high humidity and do not feed until new growth appears.

6. Temperature shocks

Cold nights below about 10°C, a sudden move from balcony to air-conditioned room, or blazing afternoon sun in May all trigger leaf drop. Change the tree's position gradually over a week.

How to save a Carmona bonsai from dying?

If the tree is shedding badly but branches still show green under a scratched bark, it can usually be saved.

  1. Check for life: scratch a twig lightly. Green beneath means the branch is alive; brown and dry means it is dead.
  2. Prune away only the dead twigs and branches, using clean tools.
  3. Slide the tree out of its pot and inspect the roots. Healthy roots are pale and firm; rotted roots are brown, soft and smell sour. Trim only the damaged ones.
  4. If the root ball is bone dry, soak the whole pot in a basin of water for ten minutes to rehydrate it, then drain fully. Do not leave the tree standing in water.
  5. Repot into fresh, free-draining bonsai mix in a pot with clear drainage holes.
  6. Place it in bright, indirect light at 20-28°C, out of direct sun, wind and air-conditioning.
  7. Water only when the surface dries, and mist the foliage daily or tent it loosely with a clear bag to hold humidity.
  8. Do not fertilise until new shoots appear, then feed at half strength. Recovery takes four to eight weeks.

Why are my Carmona flowers drying up in one or two days?

Carmona bonsai white flowers drying and wilting on the branch

1. Overwatering

Carmona is sensitive while flowering. Roots need air as well as water; waterlogged soil stops them taking up nutrients, and the buds abort or the open flowers shrivel within a day. Water only when the top of the soil is dry and never leave the pot sitting in excess water.

2. Nutrient shortage

Depleted soil, particularly one low in phosphorus, gives short-lived flowers, since phosphorus supports blooming and fruit set. Use a bloom feed higher in phosphorus about a month before flowering. Home compost enriched with crushed eggshell or banana peel adds phosphorus and potassium slowly, but it is a supplement, not a substitute for a balanced bonsai feed.

3. Heat and dry air

Carmona likes light and humidity but not scorching sun. Its comfortable range is about 18-28°C. Several hours of direct sun above 30°C, normal on a west-facing Delhi or Ahmedabad balcony in May, will burn the delicate flowers before they open fully.

Move the tree into bright, indirect light for a few days, or indoors, but keep it away from the direct airflow of an air conditioner, which dries the blooms just as fast.

4. Fungal problems

Fungal infections such as powdery mildew block water movement and leave flowers dry or wilting. Improve air circulation first, then treat if the problem persists.

SAAF is a widely used combination fungicide: mancozeb acts on contact against fungus on the plant surface, while carbendazim is systemic and moves within the plant. Follow the label dose exactly, spray in the evening and keep children and pets away until the foliage dries.

A cinnamon solution is a gentle home option some growers use on soil-borne mould: steep cinnamon powder in warm water overnight, strain it through a coffee filter and spray. Evidence for it is limited, so treat it as a mild preventive rather than a cure for an established infection.

Settling in a new Carmona bonsai

A live plant travels in a dark box, so some leaf drop or dullness in the first week is normal. Unpack it immediately, water it if the soil is dry, and place it in bright, indirect light with no feeding for two weeks while it recovers. Do not repot or prune a newly delivered tree.

Abana Homes has been growing bonsai since 2011 and delivers across India, with the nursery at B-243, Sector 2, Greater Noida, Uttar Pradesh 201306, open 8 am to 8 pm. Orders dispatch on the next working day and usually arrive within 2-5 business days after dispatch, with free shipping on orders over Rs 999. Live plants can be returned only if they arrive damaged, so photograph the parcel as you open it and contact us straight away if there is a problem.

Conclusion

Carmona, or Fukien tea, is named after the south-eastern Chinese province of Fujian, though it grows wild across tropical Asia, including India, Malaysia and the Philippines. Botanically it is Ehretia microphylla, in the borage family, and the names Carmona retusa and Ehretia buxifolia refer to the same plant. In the wild it can reach around four metres.

As a bonsai it is forgiving, flowers freely and looks old within a few years, which is exactly what most beginners want from their first tree. Give it light, even moisture and warmth, and it will reward you for decades. Browse the full bonsai tree range or explore bonsai care guides for more.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Carmona bonsai an indoor plant?

Carmona is usually grown indoors, but only at a bright window with four to six hours of light. In most Indian cities it does even better on a shaded balcony or veranda year-round, brought inside only during cold north Indian nights.

How often should I water a Carmona bonsai?

Water whenever the top centimetre of soil feels dry, not on a fixed schedule. On summer balconies that can be once or twice daily; in the monsoon, only when the mix dries; in winter, roughly every three to five days. Always water until it drains through.

How do I protect a Carmona bonsai in winter?

Move it indoors to a bright window once nights approach 10°C, water less often, and keep it away from heaters and cold draughts. Mist or use a humidity tray to offset dry indoor air, and check regularly for spider mites and scale.

Why are my Carmona bonsai leaves turning yellow and falling?

The usual cause is overwatering or a poorly draining mix, followed by too little light. Check the root ball, let the surface dry between waterings, and move the tree closer to a window. Yellowing between green veins instead suggests hard water or iron deficiency.

Does Carmona bonsai flower, and when?

Yes. Carmona produces small white flowers in flushes through much of the year when it has enough light, warmth and phosphorus, often followed by tiny green, red or black berries. Flowering stops in dim rooms and during cold spells.

How often should I repot a Carmona bonsai?

Every two to three years, in spring as growth resumes. Its roots are fine and sensitive, so tease out only the edges of the root ball, never bare-root it, and use a free-draining mix such as akadama with pumice and a little humus.

Is Carmona bonsai toxic to cats and dogs?

Ehretia microphylla is not listed on the ASPCA's toxic plants database, so it is not considered a known poisonous species. Even so, keep pets from chewing the leaves or berries, and seek veterinary advice if a large amount is eaten.

Does Carmona bonsai need a dormant period?

No. As a tropical species it does not need a cold dormancy. It simply slows down in cool, short-day weather, so reduce watering and stop feeding through winter, and keep it above about 10°C.

Sources

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